Everything old is new again, according to Giorgio Armani. And there’s a nostalgic essence knitted into dressing for the fall season.
The luxury Italian designer is bringing back everything once beautiful, and making it fashionable in the present, with his new fall/winter 2018-19 collections for both men and women.
For fall, the functional design features of utilitarianism—as seen in the uniforms worn by those who fought during the Great War—have been both softened and glammed up.
For the men, look to relaxed trousers like Armani’s baggy combat pants, but in with tailoring traits such as mohair checks for a sophisticated finish. The fluid men’s pants are also available in more luxury fabrics like velvet corduroy and wool jacquard, eliminating the harshness of war.
Likewise, outerwear—across both men’s and women’s collections next season—will be plush. For men, long worker coats and funnel neck bomber jackets—again references to pilots during the war—are all about a relaxed elegance.
Women’s coats are elongated and draped, pinned down with cinched waist-ties or conversely compact and neat, accented by crystal-beaded, embroidered, and fringed jackets, contrasted with black velvet.
Dark colour pops
Winter is synonymous with grey and black. But next season, Armani has penned a narrative inherent to colour: one that pops progressively from day-to-night attire.
For the men, textured muted tones and shades fade into light khaki, grey and black in casual wear, with unexpected jewel tones like emerald and ruby embedded in there, particularly in eveningwear jackets.
Likewise, the Armani woman this fall is founded on a palette of black and neutral tones, but not without bright touches of red and metallic flashes lighting up each outfit via a bag, scarf, or jaunty top coat.
A pioneer of the power suit in the '80s, the iconic pantsuit for women is returning next fall, but in a softer shape. The collection’s pièce de résistance is certainly the diamond-encrusted double-breasted two-piece suit, which hangs louche and close to the silhouette.
For women, other tailored trends included cocoon coats and bubble skirts for an injection of vintage femininity.
The double-breasted suit jacket is the key style for men. Armani offers a sharp-shouldered and narrow shape for fall, with eight-button closure and a notch lapel, in different shades of blue and grey.
Eveningwear looks like jewel-tone velvet dinner jackets and traditional cravats for a romantic style at night.
Accessorise, big time
Finally, the subdued hues of fall are enriched with bold styles, and textures and colour across Armani’s accessories canon.
Men can expect to be parading crocodile strap bags and walking in tractor-soled, 10-hole boots, while single-strap monk dress shoes—pinnacles of classic footwear—at the forefront of formal occasions.
For the women, metallics are major, on anything from clutches to bags, as are beads. The biggest accessories trend for fall? Statement earrings.