When the worlds of architecture and fashion collide in a series of masterpieces, the result is "Architecture of Cloth", an exhibition presented by Indonesian fashion designer Auguste Soesastro. Since it officially opened on September 15, 2016, the exhibition has been getting rave responses from fashion and art lovers.
At a time when other fashion designers are competing to hold extravagant fashion shows, Soesastro decided to shift gears by holding his first exhibition. This meant he could show more details about the manufacturing process of garments, and the audience could understand better the thought processes and observe the details that are often lost in a simple runway show.
As well as beautiful fashion designs, the process of construction, craftsmanship and the use of materials, the exhibition also demonstrates the philosophy behind the work. Soesastro noted that each work contains specific research on how the cut corresponds to the human form, either enhancing a figure or to create a void: the Japanese philosophy of "ma".
The exhibition is divided into three subcategories of research: "Formation", "Fragmentation" and "Reduction". Formation is the principle that came as a result of the background study by Soesastro in college: design architecture, which is then put into practice, especially for the proportions and composition in pattern-making.
In the second part, Fragmentation, visitors can see how the process of making these patterns is strung together into high fashion. And in the third section, Reduction, Soesastro explores his obsession in creating a piece of clothing by leaving as little waste as possible.
All works are accompanied by sketches and paintings in direct correspondence with the pieces. There are also video works created by Reuben Tourino and a series of five photographs by Anastasia Darsono, documenting the making of the garments for this exhibition.
Born in Jakarta, Auguste Soesastro was raised in the Netherlands, the US and Australia. He studied architecture and digital arts at the University of Sydney and the Australian National University, and later at the rigorous Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris, the alma mater of the great couturiers Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino.
Soesastro also trained in a number of major haute couture houses in Paris, then relocated to New York to work for couturier Ralph Rucci before launching his own label in New York City in 2008, which focuses on delivering understated authentic luxury. Other than his couture line Kraton, Soesastro also has a ready-to-wear line, Kromo.
The exhibition is located in the Dia.Lo.Gue Art Space and runs until September 24.
Photo credit: Dia.Lo.Gue Art Space