Quick, what’s the first word that comes to mind when you think of Longchamp? Travel? Airports? How about France? Now do the same for streetwear label Hood By Air. Chances are the words that came to mind would have been drastically different.
In a world where we’re so saturated with collaborations, from high street designer specials, to celebrity capsule collections, you’ll be hard pressed to find one that would even surprise you anymore, but even we had to admit this wasn’t a collection that we saw coming.
Shayne Oliver, co-founder of the New York based label, Hood by Air has joined forces with luxury French leather goods and fashion label Longchamp to create an inventive capsule collection of travel accessories and ready-to-wear that merges the distinct creative spirit of both collaborators.
Taking the concept of travel gear into a new era, the collection merges Lonchamp’s history of craftsmanship and French timeless style with Shayne’s innovative and provocative aesthethic, resulting in a dynamic offering for both men and women. The collaboration features a healthy dose of logomania and takes inspiration from everyday items like garment bags and arm slings, creating items that are both luxurious and yet tongue-in-cheek.
Shayne Oliver talks about his inspirations behind the collection and how he came up with some of the pieces.
As a designer, how did this collaboration with Longchamp enrich your personal point of view?
Shayne Oliver (SO) I like to challenge myself and do things that are unconventional, I think that can be very liberating. I liked how this project had a strong sense of heritage and a different perspective that was based in people’s everyday lives. I was inspired by this. For me, living in New York, Longchamp is part of the, dare I say, streetwear, because a lot of people own Longchamp bags. It has a language that feels very organic to me. New York is my home and it will always be what I am inspired but Paris is fashion.
How did this collaboration with Longchamp come about?
SO The first thing that interested me about the project was the garment bag and from there, and I began to think about how travel influenced me in my own collections from the past.
I came to think about the travel ties that we did for my previous brand Hood by Air (HBA) and bringing that into the language of Longchamp via the graphic.
What do the graphics symbolize?
SO Hiatus means “a gap” or “a break’”. The "HIATUS" logo relates to the period when we began working on this collaboration, at the time it was very important that I took a break. It was specifically the right time for this collaboration to happen so I feel like it was a great way of speaking about what was going on in my life -about needing to take a hiatus from the project I was working on and, focusing on where I was heading , which is this new project “by Shayne Oliver”—a series of collaborations with brands that have great heritage and renowned craftsmanship and putting my own spin on it. These bags are meant for the realness of life, it is less about having it be logos. (Related: Are Stickers The Latest It Accessory?)
This capsule collection brings some interesting styles, what inspired them?
SO The collection is made to be used in multiple different ways, it is multipurpose. This multi-functionality is how I like to live my life in general and so I tried to make that as much a part of this as possible.
For one, a lot of things that were happening to me at the time that involved healing, including physically being injured. We used the idea of an arm sling, like a sling you use when you are healing yourself, and turned it into a bag but it can still be used both ways.
Double Le Pilage came from the idea of having a bag that was more personal and having one bag that was more business. You know which side you are using by the graphic on the front. The "HIATUS" side is meant for having fun and the other is more business. I was trying to make the Le Pliage consistent with this idea of the new world.
We introduced a t-shirt style for the collaboration that speaks to the usage of the Longchamp graphic. I felt like it was important for that to be printed on a t-shirt as part of this new aesthetic for the collaboration. We then added the handles from the iconic Le Pliage so it is branded in a way that mixes the new idea of branding and the old idea of branding.