Clare Waight Keller dug deep into the house’s archives for her first collection for Givenchy and resurfaced with structured shoulder blazers, leopard spots and kiss prints from Hubert de Givenchy’s time, and paired
these with a palette of black, siren red and electric blue. While they were safe, wearable pieces (what Waight Keller has been applauded for), there was still the edgy dose of rock ’n’ roll ala Riccardo Tisci for which the French house is renowned.
Jonathan Anderson’s collection recalls seaside escapes, with fisherman’s knits, striped tops and wide-legged trousers that evoke wanderlust. Sportswear came in linen, poplin and canvas covered in patches and prints that injected a playful spirit, including a skull motif and a leaf print by artist William Morris. Anderson also created the first Loewe suit crafted from ultralight mohair in lilac, as well as sports coats in submarine yellow using fabricated wool. The Weekender and the house’s signature Puzzle bag are also reimagined in vibrant stripes.
The purveyor of luxurious fabrics married with high-performance technology filled its summer collection with highly wearable and functional pieces. Summer knits were woven from extremely lightweight blends, while technical wear came in the form of windproof parkas and crease-resistant cashmere coats and jackets perfect for sailing. The colourway was kept classic, with navy, grey and pops of colour in yellows and burnt orange.
Set in a wet and fishy New York supermarket under the Manhattan Bridge, Raf Simons’ collection took influences from Japanese ports, from the models holding partly destroyed umbrellas to wearing actual fishing boots. Bib-like scarves and camping hats completed the outfits. Most looks were completely
shrouded by hyper-sized patent coats, but occasionally the audience would get a glimpse of the skirt trousers underneath, or sliced up graphic knits with punk-rock themes.
There was no room for subtlety in Alessandro Michele’s maximalist show, which was set against an electric-blue runway and strobe lights. Where there was a suit (paired with short shorts, of course), there was a bold orange necklace or one of the various oversized graphic totes to match. Michele’s penchant for reworking retro styles continued, inspired by Elton John’s stage costumes from the ’70s. Highlights included high-shine jackets, neon-yellow blazers, musical note motifs and futuristic aviators.
It’s clear from Raf Simons’ collections at Calvin Klein that he has completely immersed himself in Americana. Partnering with artist Sterling Ruby, a longtime collaborator, Simons had the venue decorated with oversized cheerleader pom-poms and streamers. His modern cowboy shirt-and-jeans combinations emerged at the start of the show, followed by T-shirts and bags printed with Andy Warhol artwork courtesy of the Andy Warhol Foundation. Black-and-white Warhol prints were matched with chequered suits and silver-tipped cowboy boots, while an eerie sense of American horror films permeated the collection via shiny windbreakers and ensembles with paint that looked like blood spatter.
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