Through dim lights illuminating stone gateways from bygone civilisations punctuated by statues and carvings, Alessandro Michele’s idiosyncratic style emerges first with sprinkles of Elton John, whose presence and friendship with Gucci’s creative director once again strongly dots the collection. From loud jackets artfully studded with rhinestones to tote bags printed with vintage vinyl cover of Elton’s “Goodbye” song, the rock star’s celebrated career is much remembered even as he retires from touring this year.
The maison’s connection with England, and the House of Cavendish in particular, is further explored this season starting from a jumper bearing the words “Never Marry a Mitford”. This witty allusion, in reference to the 11th Duke of Devonshire, who married one of the famed English socialite Mitford sisters, comes complete with the family crest on the backside. As such, Michele’s connection and fascination with historical objects throughout many eras provides an incredible source of inspiration for creating the present—as he iterated once on Gucci’s exhibition at Chatsworth House.
Another decade showing plentifully on this season’s runway is the 1970s to the 1980s era, such as the tricolour, a flowing maxi-skirt paired with a gold-and-silver sequined long-sleeved top—complete with the braided headband, tassel earrings, cross-body bag and oversized glasses. More bags in the collection include the much-successful iterations of the classic fanny pack, plus spiced-up vintage shapes and patterns emblazoned with the brand’s logo and the words “spiritismo” and “magnetismo”.
Gucci’s logo itself is going through reinvention as Michele now spells it also as Guccy, along with new vocabularies in the Guccification process. Furthermore, he styled Guccy following the Sega Games Company’s logo coloured in many shades—from gold to red, blue, and others—to decorate bags, satchels, and jackets. Other motifs and patterns range from floral to stripes, Orientals, the GG logo, and others, creatively contrasted and constructed on materials from tweed to tulle for dresses, pants, jackets, and so much more—all in Michele’s act of creation to resist the all alike that sentences.