The late Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection was arguably the most anticipated show of the season. Teary-eyed models and brand ambassadors including Penélope Cruz, Cara Delevingne, and Luna Bijl poured out of chalet doors onto a snow-lined catwalk in Paris’ Grand Palais, which was transformed into a scene from the Alps. Looks were layered in checks and houndstooth tweeds topped with big, belted coats and intarsia knitwear—perfect for après-ski. Accessories came in a variety of soft winter hues, including shearling 2.55 bags and minaudières in the shape of gondolas.
“I like to challenge gravity and play with the way you cut a fabric, the way you direct it. The straight grain has a more controlled attitude, whereas the bias cut is more feminine; it waits for its owner before taking its final shape—then it comes alive” —Nadège Vanhee Cybulski
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s collection, which was inspired by the constellations, featured buttery-soft leather outerwear punctured with round silver studs, and jackets and jumpers with cosmic patterns. The house’s famous silk scarves, which are the first Hermès products Vanhee-Cybulski remembers seeing as a child, also inspired a variety of flowing silk blouses and dresses.
“Teddy Girls were impert inent characters with wild quiffs who wore Edwardian-style men’s jackets with velvet scarves, ample skirt s, jeans, and leather jackets” —ma ria grazia chiuri
Maria Grazia Chiuri tapped into the 1950s British Teddy Girls subculture for inspiration—the female counterpoint to Teddy Boys, a youth movement that thrived in the same era as Christian Dior’s iconic post-war New Look. Models wore Stephen Jones bucket hats adorned with fishnet veils, and sped down the runway in a mix of oversized knits, sporty anoraks, and strapless dresses in heritage checks.
4/10 Michael Kors
“When I arrived in New York, it was a time of great creativity in fashion, theatre, music, and art . The sidewalks became like runways, with an explosion of style” —Michael Kors
The American designer set his retro-inspired fall-winter show in a ballroom and included Studio 54-inspired designs, including glitter lined minidresses, feathers and fuzzy, oversized coats—while Barry Manilow crooned Copacabana in the background.
While Hedi Slimane’s debut for Celine was a series of mini dresses and skinny shapes, the designer turned his attention to daywear this season. Slimane let loose and put on a show that channelled the 1970s, filled with pussy-bow blosues, pleated culottes, and covetable shearling outerwear. Confident and cooler than cool—this is the Celine woman under the direction of Slimane.
6/10 Salvatore Ferragamo
“When I set out to create a bag worthy of carrying the most essential and cherished items in a modern woman’s life, there were some common themes: privacy, convenience, strength, beauty, and boldness” —Paul Andrew
Paul Andrews’ debut ready-to-wear collection (he was promoted from footwear designer to creative director earlier this year) features a well rounded palette of muted colours on patchwork leather skirts inspired by Ferragamo’s iconic 1938 rainbow platform wedge, originally designed for Judy Garland. Note the Gancini motif on a variety of accessories, from boyish loafers to roomy frame bags.
“I’ve been thinking a lot about England as a country of contrasts, from the structured to the rebellious” Riccardo Tisci
Riccardo Tisci continues to reinterpret British street style in his second season, emblazoning the logo chain print on everything from slip dresses to fur coats. Burberry’s famous trench was still the highlight, reimagined and turned inside out to make dresses and puffers. They were worn by models strolling through two show environments, one more structured with rigid wood seating, the other involving more than 100 teenagers scaling the walls, representing disparate worlds and Tisci’s youthful rebellion.
8/10 Giorgio Armani
“My clothes are not made to disguise people, rather to give them a certain aura. At night, just as during the day, you have to be yourself: this is the only way to achieve true style” – Giorgio Armani
The fall-winter Rhapsody in Blue collection was just that—a showcase of the soothing hue in multiple shades and silhouettes, from draped blouses to quasi-tie-dyed suits and crushed-velvet, square-toed boots. The colour lent itself to a wave motif found in the ruffled satin clutches and occasional swirls of abstract flowers found on boleros and jumpsuits.
“When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed” —Silvia Vent urini Fendi
The last collection by Karl Lagerfeld was a triumphant swan song of the designer’s hallmarks: pointed Edwardian collars on A-line petticoats, sheer layers of blouses, and perforated leather trench coats. Furs were reimagined in laser-cut patterns or fused onto riding helmets. Girlish ribbons were threaded into the backs of jackets or formed bows on collars, while Lagerfeld’s hand-drawn double-F logo became the new print on stockings and frocks, as seen on the ethereal canary yellow closing look worn by Gigi Hadid.
In this collection, Sarah Burton marries two features for which her hometown, Macclesfield, near Manchester, is famous—beautiful fields of wild blooms and fabric mills—in an edit that juxtaposes the precision of men’s tailoring and the beauty of an English rose. Trouser suits were accented with waist sashes, multilayered skirts looked like petals on a flower and silk taffeta dresses were moulded into roses.