Pierpaolo Piccioli dedicated this season to romantic love, enlisting Jun Takahashi from Undercover as his collaborator. Guests at the show received a little book of poems, including works by Greta Bellamacina, Mustafa The Poet, and Yrsa Daley-Ward, and the collection itself featured symbols of love, such as images of kissing neoclassical sculptures and red roses transplanted onto column dresses.
“I really want Valentino to be a couture house of today—to meld couture and street” —Pierpaolo Piccioli
Clare Waight Keller’s continuous exploration and combination of tough and soft has reshaped Givenchy’s DNA. Sculptural looks of razor-sharp tailoring and boot-cut trousers were coupled with curled collar plisse tunics, which are a favourite of the brand’s new ambassador, Ariana Grande.
Bruno Sialelli marks his debut at the French fashion house with of-the moment blanket ponchos, giant totes and elegant classics like easy evening silk dresses in vintage prints.
4/20 Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière presented his fall-winter collection set against the bold industrialism of a replica Pompidou Centre. The eclectic collection included tomboyish tailoring; ruffle-shouldered skater dresses; coats with dainty, quilted florals matched with Bermuda shorts and chunky brogues; and Damier-check pencil skirts—and delighted front rowers including Emma Stone, Jennifer Connelly, Willow Smith and Karlie Kloss.
“The Centre Pompidou, Beaubourg, Les Halles, Place des Innocents...i love that impression of a sartorial melting pot. Today I’ve transposed it at Louis Vuitton: A House of mult iple expressions”—nicolas GhesquiÈre
Grunge lives to see another day in more than one collection this fall, including Versace, which doubled down on perennial house motifs including giant safety pins, shiny PVC, plenty of neon, holey knits and clashing silk prints. Note the Virtus bag—named after the Roman deity of strength and courage—a new silhouette for the house, featuring a baroque V clasp.
“A little bit of imperfection is the new perfection” —Donatella Versace
6/20 Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren showed a glittering line-up of white, black and gold eveningwear in his Madison Avenue flagship store, reimagined as Ralph’s Café, continuing the brand’s goal of adopting more lifestyle experiences into its empire. Guests including Rosie Huntington Whiteley and Jessica Jung were served breakfast as they admired the glam-nautical collection of diaphanous, dramatic silhouettes.
7/20 Saint Laurent
In a box-like structure at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, the Saint Laurent stage—filled with twinkling lights, double-sided mirrors and blaring music—ignited all the senses. Highlights included coats with strong, boxy shoulders matched with animal-print pencil skirts, as well as Anthony Vaccarello’s party-ready minidresses in neon brights.
“Our woman is fullcof a subtle tension. She is a dark angel with a sensual allure, draped in black-sequinned dresses that shine like asphalt after the rain” —Anthony Vacarello
8/20 Loro Piana
Loro Piana introduces surprising brights—think bubble-gum pinks and baby blues—to the label’s ordinarily staid stable of luxurious fabrications and baby cashmeres. In an effort to include more daywear staples, chic, cropped trousers were hemmed with leather and, for the first time, the 360 LP knit sneakers were offered for women. The new accordion flap bags with a leather clasp, and gigantic draping scarves are also some of the additions we love.
New York-based designer Joseph Altuzarra was inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs—“I was drawn to the idea of toughness,” he says—which manifested in leather fringes, studs, buckles, and oversized, asymmetrical earrings on the catwalk. Key looks included Fair Isle knits matched with paisley, animal-print skirts and studded boots.
10/20 Bottega Veneta
Daniel Lee showed classic-with-a-twist accessories, such as square-toed pumps and the Italian house’s iconic Intrecciato weave translated onto totes and clutches of exaggerated shapes and proportions. While the simple, sophisticated tailoring falls in line with the house’s heritage, Lee’s statement, angular cuts, subtly sexy cut-outs and strategic brass details feel like a modern coat of armour, a distinguishing aesthetic of Lee and his contemporaries.
11/20 Victoria Beckham
A collection for every day of the week, featuring the designer’s signature skinny blouses, long pencil skirts and high-waisted trousers with a ’70s flare, this time in uplifting hues, such as vermillion and lilac, and modern windowpane checks.
12/20 Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney continues her effort to champion sustainable fashion in this collection, this time using strips of vintage silk shirts and materials from past collections to create a collage of prints on statement frocks.
A mirrored arena and walls fitted with 120,000 lights put Alessandro Michele’s retro-eclectic collection on brilliant display. There were whimsical frocks in every colour adorned with bows and sequins, and, as usual, girls in baggy three-piece suits. Watch out for this fall’s statement accessories: spiked masks, volleyball knee pads and golden ear cuffs.
14/20 Max Mara
American Congresswoman (and frequent client) Nancy Pelosi and other powerful women were the main inspiration for designer Ian Griffiths this fall, with a show that opened with three bold coat-and boot ensembles in primary hues, followed by an array of teddy cardigans, floor-sweeping trenches, and vests adorned with giant, croc embossed pockets.
15/20 Miu Miu
It was an emo mash-up on the catwalk, starring romantic warriors in capes—a garment which, for Miuccia Prada, symbolises protection against the world’s harshest climates. Fabricated in tweed, faux leather and canvas, the outerwear is available in an assortment of styles spanning utility, evening and artisanal. This season’s Miu Miu devotee should be prepared to arm herself with floral backpacks and tights embellished with jewels and flowers.
Monochromatic ensembles of trenches, minimal tailoring and cocoon coats dominated Demna Gvsalia’s runway this fall. The show venue was a pared down black box—a departure from last year’s graffiti covered structure—which allowed showgoers to focus on the clothes. What resonated were the reworked wardrobe essentials: think puff sleeved parkas, slouchy cardigans in leather and silk blouses with Dracula-worthy collars.
17/20 Marc Jacobs
Maximum volume andcthe ’80s reigned on MarccJacobs’ runway. There wereccapes and coats, enormous tulle gowns, and engulfing jackets in monochrome palettes made whimsical with stripes and polka dots, all topped with feathered hats created by long-time collaborator Stephen Jones.
Chitose Abe created her collection by thinking back to what she liked to wear as a girl. The result: a collection of mixedand- matched garments that are all encompassing—is it a nylon bomber jacket? Is it a trench coat? Is it a Fair Isle sweater? For the Japanese designer, it’s usually all of the above.
Following a menswear collection inspired by Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, Miuccia Prada presented an equally dark, romantic collection of womenswear, starring black lace capes and 3D satin flowers, and grounded in the designer’s signature crisp shirts, cargo details and chunky, utilitarian boots with detachable pockets. The anti heroines channelled? Wednesday Addams (models sported her unmistakable hairstyle) and Lady Gaga, whose hit “Bad Romance” dominated the soundtrack in a haunting rendition.
Tod’s served its finest leather on the fall-winter runway, this time in crepe-thin, boxy, colour-blocked shirts atop pencil skirts or Bermuda shorts. Of note: the introduction of leopard and Prince of Wales prints into the normally spartan fare, and the lush leather satchels doubled up in two sizes, with mini flapbags attached like a charm to their classic totes–it’s how we’ll all be wearing our bags this season.